Dark ruby/purple-tinged with high acid and a sour cherry/pomegranate-like style is the 2005 Pinot Noir Bucher Vineyard. It does offer an earthy component, but it pushes acid levels to the brink of excess. Tel. (707) 433-6425; Fax (707) 433-6546

Shows young vine jamminess, with fresh, ripe raspberry, cherry and cola flavors. The Williams Selyem balance of acids and tannins of dry elegance is evident, as is the new oak. Complex and supple, this wine needs time in the bottle to show its best. Give it until 2008, and should drink well for years beyond.——S.H.(2/1/2008)—— 92