Those who grade on “varietal typicity” would have to downgrade this lovely wine. Neumayer’s 2005 Gruner Veltliner Zwirch smells of lemon and orange blossom and, surprisingly similar to the Rafesetzen, displays almost Riesling-like citricity, and possesses dense, chewy chalky texture and mineral manifestation. It’s hard to fault this for brightness, clarity, or extract, and I suspect that a couple of year’s improvement are in the cards. Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700