Old vines from two classic Washington vineyards (Champoux and Sagemoor) give this a wonderful plushness; its dark fruit is set against a background of herb and mineral. Dig and you’ll find berries, cherries, plums and cassis, lovely hints of rosemary and thyme, sturdy tannins and a lingering, grainy finish.——P.G.(9/1/2004)—— 93