The overwhelmingly Ottonel 2007 Muscat d'Alsace Spiegel smells delightfully of ripe apricot, orange blossom and zest, basil and mint. Faintly oily on the palate yet with lovely lift (at only 12.3% alcohol), it finishes with invigorating pungency and cooling refreshment, hints of tangerine rind, coffee, salt, and chalk adding further interest to a classic of its type that will prove terrifically versatile over the next 6-8 years. it's not often you get such sheer finishing juiciness in a Muscat d-Alsace (for which Dirler credits in part his biodynamic regimen) - nor for that matter, even at this address, is one any longer truly dry. Jean-Pierre Dirler was another of those growers to express delight at the 2007 vintage with its wide window of harvest opportunities, but to have sold off or declassified much of his family's production in 2006. It bears repeating that this estate's international profile is not nearly as high as is the quality of wine that have issued from it routinely since at least the mid-1980s, when I first visited here. I did not, unfortunately, have chance to taste quite the entire 2007 Dirler-Cade collection, and canvassed only a small selection of their in any event diminished number of 2006s.Importer: Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 757-8185