Manfred Esser ran Cuvaison, so he knows Chardonnay. This wine is mainly from Clarksburg, and shows good ripeness, but is balanced by firm acidity. Barrel fermented and aged sur lie, it’s crisp and fruity, with freshly picked apple, pineapple, peach, mango and vanilla flavors that finish dry and spicy. The acidity really is racy. At 19,000 cases, it is widely available.——S.H.(11/15/2006)—— 85