The 2008 Barbera d’Alba Superiore is the product of a challenging harvest. In this vintage the smokiness and charred qualities of the French oak overwhelm the mid-weight depth of the fruit. With time in the glass, the excess oakiness recedes a touch, revealing what might have been had the weather been cooperative. Even in a tough year the quality and sheer purity of the fruit at Hilberg-Pasquero is remarkable. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2013. Hilberg-Pasquero is one of my favorite wineries in Roero. The wines are made with a natural, non-interventionalist approach in both the vineyards and cellar. As a result, there can be some variation in quality from vintage to vintage, but at their best these are some of the most unique reds readers will come across. Importer: Vignaioli Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 686-3095