The 2004 Ruster Ausbruch Turner smells overtly caramelized and exceedingly pungent – a legacy both of advanced botrytis and of Furmint’s inherent nature. A smoky, spicy, vanillin aura hangs over the entire long length of the wine – again the effect of botrytis multiplied by Furmint character (or vice versa). Caramelized and jammy apricot and quince fill in on a buttery, fat palate that nevertheless evinces a sense of lift and delicacy that belies the wine’s 14% alcohol and 200+ grams of residual sugar. The finish coats, but also penetrates to beyond the back of your neck.Also available: 2005 Gruner Veltliner Hochterrassen ($15.00; 85), 2005 Riesling Steinterassen ($17.00; 84 ), 2005 Riesling Kogel Reserve ($39.00; 86+?).Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300