Hans Tschida Muscat Ottonel Eiswein

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An Angerhof 2005 Muscat Ottonel Eiswein exhibits the glazed apricot and candied orange rind as well as some of the coarser herbal and musky sides of its grape variety and genre. Lacking the lift, clarity or subtlety of the better wines in this collection, it finishes with concentration of over-riding sweetness, which I do not think it worth holding this wine in hopes it will diminish.Hans Tschida – who has been working in wine since his childhood – has not worried about living almost literally in the shadow of Alois Kracher (with whom he says he shared many early discussions). Tschida’s sweet elixirs have their own elegant style and class, and he can also lay claim to some of best Eiswein and “Strohwein” (from fruit dried on mats) made anywhere in the world. In recent years, Tschida has begun shipping to the United States, which served to remind me it was high time that I brought his wines to the attention of my readers. Just as chez Kracher, there are two stylistic lines for nobly sweet wines: those that Tschida ferments in stainless steel tanks, he prefers to leave in tank; other wines are fermented and retained in barrique.Importers: Stacole Fine Wines, Boca Raton, FL; tel. (561) 998-0029; Winemonger, Los Angeles, CA; www.winemonger.com