The 1999 MUSCATO ANTHEMIS (the ancient name for the island of Samos) comes in at 15% (like most Greek Muscats). It was aged five years in oak. Note that the price is for a 375ml bottle. This is thoroughly delicious, dark amber in color, sweet and aromatic, both caressing and flavorful on the finish. Powerful, rich, thick and piercing, it takes that Beaumes de Venise style and adds unctuous layers of fruit, honey laced with aged brandy and caramel. It reminded me slightly of Moscatel sherry at times, too. It is a dramatically different level and style of Muscat than the charming, fresh and inexpensive Muscats one often sees from Greece—they are good values, but nothing like this often sensational bottle. Drink now-2023. Samos has had a tradition of making sweet Muscats for centuries. Many of the French Muscat vines (as planted in Alsace, for instance) are said to originate from Samos cuttings. The traditional method of production is to add alcohol distilled from grapes near the end of fermentation. The winery says that it deviates from this practice for the Anthemis and Vin Doux bottlings by adding the alcohol directly to the freshly pressed must. This, the winery says, does not change the sugar or alcohol levels, but does produce somewhat different flavors than typical Muscats. Note that these wines were actually made by the well known co-op on Samos (Union of Winemaking Cooperatives of Samos, separately listed), which makes wines at times for private labels.Importer: Trireme Imports, Huntersville, N.C.; tel: (704) 875-1973.

This vin doux naturel was fortified with grape brandy early during fermentation, yielding a lush dessert wine redolent of honey, orange marmalade and lemon. Rich but spicy, the wine pairs well with creamy cheeses, fruit and nuts.——S.K.(4/1/2010)—— 87