The opening of ripe pears and apples seems right on the money, however, the palate is a bit overzealous and spritzy, with sharper than expected orange, grapefruit and lemon flavors. This wine exemplifies the overt, lively style of Pinot Gris, but it’s one-dimensional and lacks subtlety. —M.S.——M.S.(12/31/2002)—— 85