The 1994 Espumante Grande Reserva Bruto (Vertice) is pretty much a carbon copy of the 1992 reviewed this issue, also a library wine, with a touch of a sherry note and oxidation, but lots of power and refreshing vigor. It is more intense than the 1992, though. Past prime, it still has things to offer if you can overlook the flaws or have the right food matchup. Drink now. In talking to the producer, I was advised that the winery produces only one still Tinto and one still Branco per year---whether it gets called “regular” or “Reserva” or “Grande Reserva” they say is a decision largely made by the results of the tastings and judgments rendered by the wine authorities in Portugal. As for the sparklers, the winery’s signature claim to fame, a vertical (1992-2001) of the higher end sparklers poured for me by the owners/winemakers in Douro was impressive in demonstrating ageworthiness for what are, after all, relatively inexpensive sparklers from a region not famed for them. Based on this demonstration, I’d suggest that 10-12 years after bottling, depending on the vintage, is reasonably safe. After that, the wines still showed considerable power, acidity, vigor and intensity – they were hardly dead – but also increasing oxidation and less forgivably some sherry notes. If you can look past that, 20 years may seem quite reasonable and it is entirely possible that the new versions may age better than the early examples. A few of these library wine notes are set forth here for historical purposes.Importer: Wine In-Motion LLC, 2421 Iorio St, 2nd Floor, Suite A, Union, NJ 07083 Tel: (908) 688-3837
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