Longtime readers of these pages have known of my affection for the wines of Daniel Barraud in France's Maconnais region. His unfiltered 1994 Macon-Vergisson La Roche Reserve exhibits great fruit and power, a liquid stone-like character, and gobs of lemony, buttery flavors on the palate. Full-bodied, rich, and elegant, this wine offers more persuasive evidence that some of the world's finest white wines are emerging from Burgundy's Maconnais region. Drink it over the next 2-3 years.North Berkeley Wines, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 848-8910 and (800) 266-6585; fax (510) 848-0841