The one '95 Leclerc offering that has me questioning whether the fruit has a chance to outlive the massive, aggressive tannin is the Gevrey-Chambertin Les Cazetiers. Possessing a black color and an oaky, grilled fruit nose, this highly extracted and concentrated wine has a dense, ripe core of dark fruits ensconced in huge, mean tannins. If this wine's fruit has outlasted its tannins after 12+ years of cellaring, it will be a spectacular wine.This note is the result of tastings I did in Burgundy between January 7 and January 29. The wine was tasted from cask, not bottle. Pinot Noir, a fragile varietal, reacts poorly to fining, filtration, and careless bottling techniques, I recommend caution when considering buying a red burgundy based on cask samples. I called it as I tasted it, and hope the bottled wine reflects the quality of the samples I was provided.Philippe Leclerc's wines are not for the faint hearted! Readers must been forewarned ... these are dense, black, super-concentrated, TANNIC, backward, rugged, wines that demand to be cellared. Generally they tend to be preferred by lovers of big Cabernets than by those wanting elegant, supple Pinot Noirs. Along with his brother Rene and Christian Serafin, Philippe Leclerc is the latest picker in Gevrey. Always aged in 100% new oak, sometimes for upwards of three years, Leclerc's wines are never fined or filtered. Expect these wines to be long lived and to throw a substantial sediment.An Alain Corcia Selection (French Fax # 011-33-3-80-22-71-46), importers include Southern Wines & Spirits in California.
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