The Schonborn 2008 Hochheimer Domdechaney Riesling Erstes Gewachs - with a point more alcohol and also acidity, than the later-picked Kabinett trocken from this great site - smells of cherry blossom, fresh lemon, and sea breezes. Iodine and brine, almond and peach kernel fascinatingly accent fresh peach and lemon on a glossy, glycerin-rich palate. The finish here, too, is rich yet refreshing and possessed of a sense of mineral depth. I really like the results in Hochheim this year, comments Barth, and although these sites- heavier soils are often disadvantaged in years of autumn rain, their extra measure of overall warmth can prove ideal for vintages that challenge Riesling to fully ripen elsewhere. Bart believes a wine like this needs 4-5 years to show its stuff, but I shall remain conservative until evidence to the contrary is forthcoming and recommend you enjoy it anytime over the next 5-7 years.
An April, 2009 visit to this estate - my first in many years - convinced me of Peter Barth's seriousness and talent, and revealed many wines worthy of the great potential of the vast von Schonborn acreage. Last September, I was thrilled by an even finer collection. The number of separate and vineyard-specific bottlings here (as explained - along with other recent developments at this estate - in issue 185) is nowadays intentionally limited. Additionally, in 2008 Barth adopted a very conservative approach, essaying few nobly sweet wines, and while finding his best fruit from top parcels worthy of Erstes Gewachs bottlings, he did not render parallel Spatlese trocken bottlings from the same sites as in other recent years. -Our late start picking this year, with the first Riesling on October 17,- Barth points out, -would have been considered entirely normal 15 years ago. But honestly, by the time we started, I think more than half of the Rheingau had already been picked, a lot of that wines with green, unripe notes and resulting in wines that were then de-acidified.-
Various importers, including Dee Vine Wines San Francisco, CA; tel. (877) 389- 9463, Slocum & Sons, North Haven, CT; tel. (203) 239-8000, Frederick Wildman & Sons, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700
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