Taltarni’s Brut Tache is a coppery-pink rose with a bouquet that combines toasty, yeasty notes with assertive citrus scents, then adds on some savory, mushroomy elements. It’s even meatier and more savory on the palate, making it better suited than most sparklers to match with meat courses. Doesn’t seem likely to age further, so drink up. ——J.C.(12/31/2006)—— 86