Follow it for at least a dozen years. Remoissenet’s 2007 Chambertin represented their first and last year buying from the grower in question, and is admittedly a bit disappointing for its appellation, though far from being a poor wine. Game, leather, black tea, nutmeg, and cooked dark cherry on the nose lead to a savory, meaty palate that fails to deliver the promised black fruits in juicy form. There is good grip and moderate complexity of carnal and mineral elements, but I miss the sweetness of fruit and the florality that ought to be present in a wine from this appellation. I would drink this over the next 3-5 years.
Remoissenet owns a significant share of Pinot Noir acreage in both Cotes, to which they will be adding, in contrast to their circumstances with Chardonnay, wherein their control over a large share of Montrachet is unique, and represents the bargaining chip employed to acquire fruit or young wines as a negociant. (For further details on the “new Remoissenet” begun in 2006, its evolution and its personnel, please consult my report on their 2007 vintage whites in issue 189.) The low yields and late harvest to which the team here pledges allegiance has led to two impressive collections. With regard to my speculations concerning longevity, bear in mind that no track record has yet been established under the current regime, the upbringing of pre-2006 wines under the Remoissenet label being utterly irrelevant.
Importers: Bertin Henri Selections, Doral, FL; tel. (305) 392 6995, Cavatappi Distribuzione, Seattle, WA; tel. (206) 292 5226, Dark Star Imports, New York, NY; tel. (646) 312 8921, Simon N Cellars, Charlottesville, VA; tel. (434) 977-4476.
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