Even by Albarino standards, this is a particularly dry, acidic wine. It’s what you look for, and what you get, in this wine from Bonny Doon’s Randall Grahm. From the east side of Salinas Valley, the wine brims with tart lime zest and tangerine fruit, with a pungently peppery edge of nasturtium flower.——S.H.(11/1/2007)—— 87