Willi Brundlmayer Gruner Veltliner Lamm Trockenbeerenauslese

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Green tea creme brulee with strawberry, rhubarb, and apricot preserves vividly and irresistibly scent and flavor Brundlmayer's 2009 Gruner Veltliner Lamm Trockenbeerenauslese, a wine that combines almost magically levity with texturally caress; richness with refreshment; and botrytis-induced honeyed caramelization and creaminess with fresh fruit. A haunting aura of truffle and bread that reminds me of some great 1971 German Riesling emerges as this opens, and while the mere 7.5% alcohol points toward around 200 grams of residual sugar, the wine's sense of sweetness is not in the least overdone. The finish billows and buoys to a memorable next sip, since waiting for it to dissipate is futile and frustrating! There have been quite a few really superb nobly sweet wines from this address over the years - and also a few I've found overly-influenced by the small barrels in which Brundlmayer routinely vinifies them - but I had never tasted the equal of this beauty until the 2009 vintage came along. Despite the relatively short crop in 2010, Brundlmayer notes that volumes were not inordinately impacted at the upper level of his portfolio, and that he expects as usual, if not more so, to take time with the release of the top Gruner Veltliner. (Brundlmayer is also among the very few Austrian growers to - largely for the benefit of his foreign customers - re-release selected wines after they have had a number of years in bottle; and he releases virtually no reds until they have enjoyed significant bottle age.) For now though, 2010 seems to be a collection that reflects its vintage's challenges and in which Riesling from the Heiligenstein is clearly the star. Brundlmayer's 2009s - the whites, at least - are more uniformly excellent. (He won-t begin showing me 2009 reds until next June.) What's more, some sort of miracle, the like of which I have never before witnessed at this address, seems to have taken place under the auspices of noble rot (and those sweet 2009s should come our way in the next year or two). The high quality and fascination of Brundlmayer's diverse sparkling cuvees is worth once again noting, even if I have omitted publishing detailed notes and small-lot designations for what are always officially non-vintage wines. It's also worth singling-out an all"2007 cuvee of Pinot and Chardonnay with a bit of Gruner Veltliner that was bottled Extra Brut "-though believe, me," notes Brundlmayer, "we try-out nearly every sort of dosage and were surprised that this performed better without" - a wine whose combination of herbal, vegetal, nutty, and mineral tones offers subtly delicious -food- for thought.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300