The top cuvee of old vines, the 1999 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Imperiale reveals a dense ruby-purple color, along with complexity in the nose (seaweed, balsam, ripe black cherries, and earth). Expansive and full-bodied, with noticeable tannin in the fabulous finish, this sumptuous, powerful 1999 is impressive, particularly in view of the vintage. Anticipated maturity: now-2018. Raymond Usseglio is at the top of his game and consumers should be pursuing his splendid wines.Importer: Peter Weygandt, Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel (610) 486-0800

Surprisingly and impressively structured for a '99 Chateauneuf. Lots of mineral, black fruit and firm but ripe tannins. Tastes of old vines; has real grip. Medium-bodied, nothing seductive about it, but the flavors are authentic, and the terroir comes through on the fresh, long finish. Best from 2003 through 2010. 205 cases made. -PM