The 1990 appears to be fuller-bodied and more structured than the 1989, but not as concentrated as his 1988. A big wine, it is rich in color, with a spicy, stemmy earthiness, and gobs of black fruit on the palate. While it is full-bodied, raw, and tough, the potential is there. I do not think it will ever match the 1988 in quality, but it may surpass the 1989. Lemencier produces 8,000 bottles, all of which are unfined and unfiltered, so expect a heavy sediment to form with several years of aging. Last tasted 3/95.
The young, wiry, long-haired Jacques Lemencier is an up-and-coming Cornas producer. He apprenticed under Robert Michel before he started his own operation. Lemencier believes in complete destemming. The wines see no new oak, and are bottled after nearly a year in barrel. Lemencier has moved toward an earlier bottling date in order to preserve as much fruit as possible. Like most Cornas producers, he never filters his wines. Lemencier produces very fine Cornas with good intensity and aging potential. Unfortunately, there is not a lot of wine to go around from his 6.2 acres of vineyards. The production, from one parcel with 10-year-old vines, and another with 90-year-old vines, is blended together. Lemencier also produces a tiny amount of St.-Peray blanc, a wine that is monolithic and one-dimensional.