A compelling, profoundly great wine is the 2004 Ermitage l’Ermite blanc. This is extremely limited in availability, but the light gold color offers up a liqueur of pears, wet rocks, and honey. Citrus oil, viscosity, extraordinary richness, and acidity make this wine (like all of these Ermitages, made from 100% old-vine Marsanne) just exquisite. There is nothing like these wines anywhere in the world, and the fact that the single vineyard Ermitages are aged in 100% new oak, yet show no trace of oak whatsoever is mind-boggling. This is exquisite wine that you either drink in its first 3-4 years or forget for two decades. Importer: Terlato Wines International, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604-8900

A compelling, profoundly great wine is the 2004 Ermitage l’Ermite blanc. This is extremely limited in availability, but the light gold color offers up a liqueur of pears, wet rocks, and honey. Citrus oil, viscosity, extraordinary richness, and acidity make this wine (like all of these Ermitages, made from 100% old-vine Marsanne) just exquisite. There is nothing like these wines anywhere in the world, and the fact that the single vineyard Ermitages are aged in 100% new oak, yet show no trace of oak whatsoever is mind-boggling. This is exquisite wine that you either drink in its first 3-4 years or forget for two decades. Importer: Terlato Wines International, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604-8900

For white Hermitage, this is tight and minerally, with more structure than Chapoutier’s other microcuvees and possibly more aging potential. There’s a bit of truffle on the nose, but it’s not so exotic as the De L’Oree, nor so rich and fat as Le Meal. Finishes with tremendous length and minerality.——J.C.(9/1/2007)—— 95