Schloss Gobelsburg 'Gobelsburger' Gruner Veltliner, Kamptal, Austria

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I began my annual vinous tour with the 2004 Gruner Veltliner Gobelsburger. Honeysuckle, roasted lentil, sweet pea and delicate white pepper waft from the glass. On the palate, this light-bodied “l(fā)ittle” wine is about as pure and pristine as it gets: so infinitely juicy, glossy and refreshing (full of melon, cress, sweet pea and citrus on the palate), so focused and precise you could polish precious stones with it. Only snobs or the very ticklish will object to the qualities of this wine’s finish. (I kept laughing into my tape, but there is nothing funny about the wine.) And did I forget to say that this is an amazing value? Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300