Before winemaker Dan Gehrs began to turn around this moribund operation, Zaca Mesa was hardly a name that inspired confidence. All that has changed with a series of increasingly delicious, richly fruity, intriguing, well-made wines. Other Alumni Series wines I tasted included a 1993 Syrah, made by alumni winemaker Bob Lindquist, which I found earthy, high in acidity, and of average quality, and a tart, high acid 1993 Pinot Noir from the Sierra Madre Vineyard.
One of the breakthroughs for Zaca Mesa has been their work in the Rhone Ranger field. Zaca Mesa's efforts with Syrah are even more impressive as they are blending in Viognier in an attempt, I suspect, to make a Guigal La Mouline-like wine (which is a blend of 10% Viognier/90% Syrah). However, La Mouline sells for $150-$250 a bottle, whereas Zaca Mesa's Syrah retails for $14-$16. But there is even better news than the 1993! The 1994 Syrah, blended with 10% Viognier, is significantly better! It will not be released until spring, 1996, but readers are advised to be on the look-out for it. Discounters will probably sell it for $12-$13 a bottle, making it unquestionably one of the richest, most hedonistic wines per penny spent that I have tasted and reviewed. The wine offers an opaque purple color, an exceptional nose of sweet berry fruit (jammy cassis, tropical fruits, and overripe peaches), a full-bodied, viscous, satiny smooth texture, and outstanding flavor extraction. This is a harmonious, gorgeously rich Syrah that may ultimately turn out to be Santa Barbara's answer to Cote Rotie. Don't dare miss it! Tel. (805) 688-9339; Fax (805) 688-8796
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