The 2005 Pinot Gris Rotenberg delivers more aromatic punch and pungency, with prominent smoked meat character. A refreshing salinity and smoky meatiness persist on the gentle palate, amid peaches and honey. Subtle, satisfying spice and salinity mark a finish of very discreet sweetness. Philippe Ehrhart largely markets wines as “Domaine Saint-Remy,” but those that are shipped to the U.S. appear under his own name. The best of these (all, incidentally, raised in tank) display purity without great intensity or complexity, but his young Rieslings displayed oddly developed, fusil, sometimes bitter phenolics.Imported by Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832 9083.