Boillot's black-colored Pommard Les Rugiens is extraordinarily impressive yet an atypical and potentially controversial Burgundy. Produced from vines that are over 80 years old, it reveals a nose of over-ripe, amazingly concentrated sweet black fruits that is more reminiscent of a Banyuls from Dr. Parce. Flavors of prunes, plums, sweetened coffee and black cherry jam are found in this thick, full-bodied and massively-endowed wine. A raw, rugged backbone of tannin is present in this offering's stupendously long finish. Akin to a late harvest Pinot Noir, without residual sugar, this thrilling wine may ultimately merit a higher score when it settles down and develops more civility. Anticipated maturity: 2002-2010+. Jean Marc Boillot's 1995 reds were produced from yields in the 20-30 hectoliter/hectare range. The 100% destemmed grapes are put through a one week cold maceration, then a high temperature fermentation (between 32-35 degrees centigrade), followed by another maceration at 26-27 degrees centigrade. The vinification lasts three weeks. The wines are then placed in 20-30% new oak barrels (the remaining barrels are 1 and 2 years old). Boillot believes his reds should only be fined in tannic vintages such as '93 and '90. He did not fine his '95s, but they were subjected to a Kieselguhr (diatomaceous earth) filtration. While this domaine's '95s exhibit an excellent concentration of ripe fruit, they also have a level of dry tannin that is worrisome (hence the question marks). Will the fruit outlive the tannin? Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel (205) 980-8802.