The 2010 Chardonnay Ma Douce opens with gorgeous, Burgundian aromatics. Crushed rocks, gunflint, smoke, lemon oil, apricots and juicy peaches flow across the palate. The 2010 is rich, voluminous and textured from start to finish. Ma Douce is the most vibrant and focused of the Morlet Chardonnays. This is a beautiful Chardonnay from Luc Morlet. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2018. Luc Morlet must surely have one of the broadest portfolios in California between the wines he makes under his own labels and for his consulting clients. There are a lot of beautiful wines in this range, although I have to admit, I tend to prefer the wines Morlet makes in Napa Valley over those from Sonoma. I have a slight preference for the 2011 Chardonnays over the 2010s, as I find the more recent vintage a touch more refined. In addition to these wines, I also tasted all of the 2011 Pinots, but found them in an awkward, raw state that is not unusual for young wines from this cold and very late harvest. Tel. (707) 967-8690

The 2010 Chardonnay Ma Douce possesses gorgeous aromatics, expressive fruit and an inviting, creamy finish. The flavors aren’t fully developed, but that is not surprising given that the fruit was not picked until the end of October in this late-ripening coastal site. It is the elegance of the texture that stands out most. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2019. I was quite frankly amazed by the range of wines I tasted with Luc Morlet. The wines span everything from single-variety Chardonnays, Pinots and Syrahs to Bordeaux-inspired blends. La Proportion Doree is a Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc blend with a dash of Muscadelle. Morlet’s Billet Doux is a late-harvest version of that wine, but with fruit just from Alexander Valley. Passionnement is Cabernet Sauvignon from vineyards in Oakville, while Coeur de Vallee is Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, also from Oakville. Mon Chevalier is a Bordeaux-style blend made from vineyards in Knights Valley. Morlet Estate, 100% Cabernet Sauvignon from St. Helena, is the newest wine in the lineup.Tel. (707) 967-8690; www.morletwines.com