Just pop the cork, let it breathe and enjoy it as it does its thing. One of the best Adelsheim wines this taster can remember. Full of red plum, raspberry and currant, with the right acidity for it to rock and roll. Healthy tannins round out this supple sipper, which hits its stride after a half-hour of airing and then gallops home. ——M.S.(12/1/2000)—— 90