The 2009 Puligny-Montrachet shows most of it charms up front, with plenty of expressive fruit and a juicy, accessible personality that is best enjoyed sooner rather than later. The wine finds a more delicate, understated expression on the pretty finish. Anticipated maturity: 2012+. This is an excellent set of wines from Jean-Marc Boillot. The wines were aged in 25% new barrels, with batonnage once a week. The malos were finished by February and the wines were bottled in September 2010. Readers will note that most of the estate’s whites are Puligny-Montrachet premier crus. In 2009, not all of these wines are markedly different from each other, which is not completely surprising in a warm year. At the same time, another feature of these 2009s is that many of the wines are unusually bright for the year. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802