Young and dense, almost misleading in its soft fruitiness, but there’s tremendous power, and despite the appearance of approachability, it would be a mistake not to cellar this wine. It’s explosive in fruit and berry flavors, and the tannins are so melted, you could easily open it tonight. But this is a wine with proven ageability. Should begin to mature by 2010 and drink well through 2020, at least. ——S.H.(9/1/2006)—— 93