After tasting the two vintages of Crozes-Hermitage, I felt the 1996 might turn out to be the better wine, although it is a difficult choice. The 1996 Crozes-Hermitage exhibits an opaque black/purple color, and crisp acidity in its powerful flavors that are crammed with minerals, black fruits, and smoke. Made from yields of 40 hectoliters per hectare from well-established vineyards in the Mercurol area of the appellation, the wine possesses copious tannin in the long, tight finish. This Crozes-Hermitage will require 2-3 years of cellaring when released, but it is capable of lasting for 15-16 years.As a postscript, readers should be aware that all the Tardieu-Laurent wines reviewed in this segment are very reasonably priced.A Patrick Lesec Selection (Paris fax # 011 33 1 42843822), various American importers