The 2007 Pinot Meunier comes from the estate’s oldest plantings (which would take it back into the mid-1960s). Light to medium ruby-colored, it offers a fragrant perfume of underbrush, spice box, rose petal, and assorted red fruits. Slightly rustic on the palate, this firm yet elegant effort displays lively acidity, savory flavors, good balance, and a lengthy finish. A visit to The Eyrie Vineyards where Jason Lett presides is like getting a history lesson in how wine used to be made (and some might say still should be made). From the grape growing through the elevage, this is an artisanal, non-interventionist, unique operation that continues to turn out some of the most fascinating wines on the planet. Knowing Eyrie Pinot Noir’s propensity for longevity, my drinking windows are likely to seem conservative a decade from now. Tel. (503) 472-6315; www.eyrievineyards.com