Weingut Baron zu Knyphausen Charta Riesling Kabinett, Rheingau, Germany

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Originating in the Michelmark, Knyphausens 2009 Riesling Kabinett Charta features peach and musk melon in a polished, juicy, very ripe - and, at 13% alcohol relatively full and arguably un-Kabinett-like - performance. Legally trocken, with its suggestions of fruit kernel bitterness well-woven into an ample and satisfyingly fine-grained palate, this finishes with good length if without much complexity or enticement. Gerko zu Knyphausen has acquired a new partner (holding a 50% share) who will assist in management and marketing. When this new investment funds director Wolfgang Frank informed me - employing the allegedly Burgundian classificatory language now so fashionable among German vintners - that the estates portfolio had been significantly restructured, I was to say the least skeptical. Naturally, though, of paramount importance is the quality of whatever is put into bottle (and the Knyphausen estate had registered a few disappointing recent collections). What I found when I visited in November was Knyphausen and long-time vineyard and cellar manager Rainer Ruttiger very much at their posts; a revision of the wine line-up that incorporated rather bold and in my opinion largely laudable stylistic innovations; and the most exciting collection I can recall at this address in nearly two decades. Its obvious from my conversations with the team that renewed rigor in vine management has been contributory to improved quality, and whatever combination of renewed inspiration and fiscal freedom has further impacted this years performance, heres hoping that it continues!Importer: P. J. Valckenberg International, Tulsa, OK; tel. (918) 622-0424