Weingut Hirsch Gaisberg Riesling, Kamptal, Austria

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Blond tobacco and pungent herbs in the nose of Hirsch’s 2010 Riesling Gaisberg – which, as usual, was still in cask when I tasted it – could come from a Gruner Veltliner, but there is an intensity of grapefruit, white peach, and lime that could only come from Riesling, not to mention a vibrantly interactive complexity of mineral nuances that could only come from a great Urgestein site. Citrus zest, peach fuzz, and peach kernel add to the invigoration of a memorably long finish. This should be worth following for at least a dozen years. Johannes Hirsch claims not to have de-acidified even his least expensive 2010. “If you just waited to harvest and then waited to bottle,” he insists, “nature took care of things,” not only through precipitation of tartrates but “because these wines just have so much sheer extract,” something I certainly thought palpable while tasting this terrific collection. “The motto for this vintage should be ‘Let it all hang out!’,” Hirsch says with a grin by way of summary.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300