The largely old-vines 2007 Chassagne-Montrachet Vergers is another one of those toasty-, woody-smelling Amiot wines. On the palate, there is a slight sense milkiness as well as of toasted oak, and while there are also an attractively bright citric character, fresh apple, and a deep toasted nuttiness that seeks rapprochement with the barrel, this sleekly-textured, well concentrated wine will deserve re-assessment in 2010 to see how it knits. I would tentatively anticipate its being worth following for several more years thereafter.
Thierry Amiot was one of a number of growers who admitted to me that their choice of starting date for the 2007 Chardonnay harvest was inevitably influenced by the presence of a crew who had just finished bringing in a ridiculously early crop of Pinot Noir, and that perhaps in the first days this picking might have been a bit too early for optimal Chardonnay flavor. Still, better that than any botrytis: Amiot’s 2007s are far more impressive than had been his collection of 2006s, which suffered occasional diffuse, volatile, or rough patches, and were really only convincing in the upper-echelons. The 30-50% new wood used here was once again evident, as are the results of batonnage (omitted in 2006). Finished alcohol levels this year do not exceed 13.5%, which is lower than in other recent Amiot vintages. As usual, village wines were bottled at one year and premier crus along with the reds, after 16 months.
Importer; Kermit Lynch Wine Merchants, Berkeley, CA; tel (510) 524-1524
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