Syrah continues to go from strength to strength at Dehlinger. The 1994 Syrah Estate has shut down in the bottle, and will require 4-5 years of cellaring, after which it will age well for 15-20 years. The color is an impressive opaque purple, and the wine reluctantly offers up sweet cassis, pepper, tar, and earthy scents. Full-bodied and chewy, with excellent purity, this is an impressively-endowed yet moderately tannic Syrah for laying down for a few years. Looking at the equation of points for value, Tom Dehlinger's wines still represent some of the best bargains in California. I can imagine there must be immense pressure on him to increase prices given both the quality of his wines, and the fact that he is dead center in the Russian River, a viticultural region that is as hot as a firecracker when it comes to popularity. His upcoming line-up includes many enticing entities. Tel. (707) 823-2378; Fax (707) 823-0918
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