The single-vineyard 2005 Chianti Classico Riserva Coltassala offers notable depth and harmony in a sweet, fruit-driven style. It is a fresh, primary wine that needs time in bottle to develop its full array of aromas and flavors, but its potential is amply evident even at this relatively early stage. The wine’s balance of fruit and structure suggests it will drink well for another decade or so. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2018. This is an excellent, but not outstanding, set of new wines from Castello di Volpaia. The estate’s location in Radda, one of the cooler micro-zones in Chianti Classico, is an asset in warm vintages but also presents challenges in fresher vintages such as 2005. Importer: Wilson Daniels Ltd, St. Helena, CA; tel. (707) 963-9661