A 2005 Gruner Veltliner Eiswein from the Steinsetz, harvested in late November, smells of honey, fresh orange, sweet pea, and a hint of radish. On the palate, it displays the utmost purity of apricot nectar, fresh orange, honey, and raspberry, all accented by notes of pea tendril and brown spice. This balances an incredible amount of sugar and combines enormous richness and intensity of flavor with lift, buoyancy and elegance, the way that truly great Eiswein can – and I cannot recall having had better from Austria. Also recommended: 2005 Riesling Urgestein ($23.00; 86), 2004 Riesling Tradition ($41.00; 86+?), 2004 St. Laurent Klassik (not available; 86+?).Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300
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