If Chateau Latour were produced in Rioja, it might taste like this. A blend of 85% Tempranillo, 10% Graciano, 3% Grenache, and 2% miscellaneous grapes, this old vine, unfiltered offering is extremely tight, reserved, and backward, but, oh, what potential! Aged in both French and American oak, it exhibits a promising nose of black cherry jam, smoky wood, licorice, and black currants. Dense and huge, with formidable tannin, outstanding concentration, and an unevolved, backward personality, it requires 3-5 years of bottle age. Anticipated maturity: 2004-2020. Impressive! Importer: Jorge Ordonez, Fine Estates From Spain, Dedham, MA; tel. (781) 461-5767