Cortes de Cima, Vinho Regional Alentejano, Portugal

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The 2002 Cortes de Cima is a blend of Aragonez (50%), Syrah (34%) and the rest Cabernet Sauvignon, Touriga Nacional and Trincadeira. As in Douro, 2002 was a difficult vintage in Alentejano, with heavy rains interrupting the harvest. This isn’t bad, but it is unexceptional and a bit light and bright, with tannins and acidity winning out over the fruit, which is a little hard to find at times. The fruit flavors do pop up, though, and it has some pleasing moments. It also has some intensity, perhaps a bit more than the fruit can keep up with. It isn’t a bad wine, but a little short and simple. Drink up – it won’t get any better with cellaring, notwithstanding the tannic structure. Drink now-2009. Danish-born Hans Jorgensen is the owner here, with his American wife (of Portuguese ancestry), Carrie. Cortes de Cima has become popular for Syrah in Southern Portugal, producing very modern-styled wines. The road to Syrah was a bit rocky – they started using Syrah, and running afoul of the wine regulations, thus branding one wine, simply, Incognito. The wines tend to be a bit flamboyant. Certain of them may make some tasters think “over-the-top.” They are usually not for the shy. The first release was in 1996.Importer: Tri-Vin Imports, Mt. Vernon, NY; tel. (914) 664-3155

Packed with ripe, juicy fruits, this is one of the fine range wines from Cortes de Cima. A blend of Aragones and Syrah, it has fresh, black flavors and a lively tannic character. This wine would be great with barbecues.——R.V.(12/1/2004)—— 86