Consistently my favorite of Martine and Daniel Barraud’s Pouilly-Fuisses is their En Bulands Vieilles Vignes, and 2002 is no exception. Its profound nose displays an unreal concentration of minerals, pears, and spices. Lush, broad, and softly textured, this medium-bodied beauty combines fabulous precision with power, depth, refinement, and focus. White fruits, verbena, quinine, minerals, and hints of red currants can be found throughout its profound character as well as in its lime-tinged finish. This wine is a grand cru in all but name. Projected maturity: 2006-2014.Importer: North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 848-8910; the other wines are Peter Vezan Selections (Paris Fax # 011-33-1-42-65-42-93), various importers including Michael Skurnik in NY; tel. (516) 677-9300
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