These vines are 100 years old, and although this wine stems from the same vineyard as the Old Vine bottling, it has important differences. It’s much softer in acidity. It’s also much denser and thicker in the mouth, and the flavors suggest dark chocolate, plum preserves, and elderberry wine. To my mind, it lacks the balance and verve of the Old Vine Zin. ——S.H.(12/1/2002)—— 86