Wildly provencal, the 1998 Chateauneuf du Pape Croix de Bois was singing on this occasion and had tons of kirsch, garrigue, seaweed and gamy notes all giving way to a full-bodied, plump, fruit-filled Chateauneuf du Pape that's drinking at point. There's no upside here, but it should evolve nicely going forward on its terrific core of fruit.