The Prieur 2006 Beaune Champs Pimonts is altogether more complex, sensually satisfying, and authoritative than this year’s Clos de la Feguine. (I can only assume that the latter’s monopole status accounts somehow for its higher price.) Smelling of yellow plum, lemon, white truffle, white peach, and chalk dust, it offers soothing, creamy, mouth-coating persistence allied to refreshing brightness, and an alluring dynamic of fruit and stony minerality. This rich, nuanced wine should be worth following for at least 4-6 years in bottle. The rich, glossy, yet overtly mineral 2005 is comparably impressive.
Harvest began here September 20, and oenologist Nadine Gublin (who recently added wine making direction at Brocard in Chablis to her duties) insisted their Chardonnay was not really ripe before them – even though its evolution was rapid – and that very little triage was necessary. Malo-lactic transformation was exceedingly protracted, and some wines were not finished even in November, 2007, when I last tasted them. The entire collection was rather obviously marked by their (40-100%) new wood; less so by its routinely over-14% alcohol.
Importer: Frederick Wildman & Sons, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700.
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