The 2008 Valpolicella Classico Superiore Domini Veneti Verjago is surprisingly dense, plump and ripe. Verjago shows impressive intensity and an inky dark consistency that is supported by thick layers of smoked ham, resin, tar, pencil lead, spice and cola. It closes with jammy fruit flavors and a softly velveteen consistency. Drink 2014-2019.
Cooperative wineries are often seen as the ugly ducklings of Italian wine. But the dynamic Cantina Valpolicella Negrar with 220 members who farm a total of 600 hectares is maturing into a graceful swan. The co-op is very active when it comes to experimentation with sustainable farming methods and innovative winemaking. I was absolutely captivated by the “Espressioni” set of wines – all Amarone from the 2005 vintage – that captures the essence of five townships: San Pietro in Cariano, Fumane, Sant’Ambrogio di Valpolicella, Marano di Valpolicella and Negrar. This set of wines offers a fascinating glimpse into the individual winemaking regions in the Valpolicella Classico zone. The “Espressoni” (Amarones Castelrotto, Mazzurega, Monte, San Rocco and Villa) make a strong argument for creating delineated subzones based on municipality like you find in other premier growing areas such as Barolo and Chianti Classico.
Importer: Domini Veneti USA, www.cantinanegrar.it
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