Caves Transmontanas Espumante Pinot Noir CC & Cp

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The 2007 PINOT NOIR "CC & CP" is a complicated wine. First, "Caves Transmontanas" is hard to find on the label, but it is a wine made at Caves Transmontanas. It is a 100% Pinot Noir sparkler, a 50/50 blend of Douro and Bairrada grapes, the Bairrada grapes chosen by Carlos Campolargo (Bairrada) and the Douro grapes by Celso Pereira, Caves Transmontanas- winemaker (the 'CC' and 'CP' on the label). In a very complicated train of events, the Bairrada base wine was then taken to the Douro for the second fermentation that took place at Caves Transmontanas' cellars. Finally, after 25 months in bottle, a total of 4,287 bottles were released. Although a 'red grape' wine, this differs radically from the friendlier and more accessible Rose reviewed this issue. Crisper, hard edged, austere and far more piercing (and without that seriously pink coloring), this new bottling finishes in mouthcoating fashion and seems to demand to be taken very seriously. It is an interesting experiment, very finely structured with lots of everything. This will retail in Portugal for around 19 euros, but it may not be available in the USA. I like the way it shows now, but I suspect it will hold well and may yet improve in the cellar. I certainly liked it better after it warmed up a bit, and sparkling wine enthusiasts might be of the opinion that a year or two of cellaring would improve it. Drink now-2018. This winery founded by the late Jack Davies of Schramsberg (although his family and company are no longer associated with Caves Transmontanas) is best known for its sparkling wines, and lately they-ve been making a statement in that area. The red wines have improved quite a bit and are quite nice now, too, and the whites are often very nice and good values, but it is hard to overlook what they achieve in sparklers. Let's just say I-ve heard -You mean this is Portuguese????- quite a few times. Alas, the new release -05 Gouveio was not received in time to include in this report. It will be supplemented in the February issue.Importer: V.O.S. Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 967-6948.