Hiedler has shown himself a master of Weissburgunder (Pinot Blanc). His lighter version in 2004 (from the Spiegel) has considerable liveliness and potential. He prefers however to show me his top bottling only after it has had some months in bottle. Accordingly, I can report on this occasion that the 2003 Weissburgunder Maximum smells of marjoram, toasted hickory nuts, and apple cider. Full-bodied and formidably dense in the mouth, its glossy, glyceral-rich fruit also displays a pure, clear and uplifting character that was hard to capture amidst the heat and drought of 2003. Long and evocatively nutty and rich, it preserves a pool of juicy fresh fruit deep enough to bathe in. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300