A whiff of sweaty saddle in the nose, followed by this exemplary vineyard’s beguiling mix of stone, mineral, earth and tart blueberry flavors. The complexity and elegance come through despite the huge (14.9%) alcohol; but perhaps this is pushing the ripeness just a bit too far. The distinctive character of the vineyard is close to being masked. ——P.G.(5/1/2004)—— 91