Don’t look for fat, buttery stuff here. This wine is as streamlined as a steel girder. With high acidity and a firm minerality, it hits the palate clean and spicy. But once it warms up, wham! Exotic kiwis, limes and mangoes take over as well as the buttercream effects of barrel fermentation. Fantastic concentration, and probably good for a decade. ——S.H.(11/15/2006)—— 93