Early this year I tasted a small subset of last year’s numerous releases from this winery, finding an entry-level 2009 Pinot Noir tart without offering genuine invigoration or refreshment, but a 2009 Pinot Noir Deux Verres – which I happen to have encountered twice – displayed a more engaging manner, its tart; persistently juicy; seed and pit-laced evocation of red raspberry and cherry informing a firm-textured, if not slightly hard, palate. Scents of hibiscus and brown spice add some interest. I wouldn’t have recognized this as being from its vintage; in fact, when I tasted it blind the first time, I assumed it must be a 2010. My suspicion is that it will be best drunk over the next 2-3 years.
Another Oregon winery founded by a wine lover smitten with the charms of Pinot, Torii Mor’s first vintage was 1993, but by then the wine lover in question – Dr. Donald Olson – was a veteran grower, his vines (located immediately north of the prime Dundee Hills stretch of Worden Hill Rd.) having reached age 21. Burgundian Jacques Tardy has been the winemaker since 2004.
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