When I was in northern California the week before Thanksgiving, the rumors that were swirling about the impending sale of Beringer by its international corporate owner, Nestle, to an investment consortium proved true when the sale was announced. Let's hope the new owners maintain the status quo, as Beringer has had an exceptional run of highly successful wines since the mid-eighties. Considering the diversity of wines produced, I would be hard pressed to single out another winery that has enjoyed as much success as Beringer has over the last decade.With the exception of a chunky, overly-oaked Pinot Noir, it is impossible to find anything less than top-flight at Beringer, with many of the firm's wines undeniably special. The 100% barrel-fermented Meritage (a blend of equal parts Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc) is aged in 50% new oak. A lot of lees stirring ( or batonage as the French say) is done to produce a fleshy, medium to full-bodied, full-blown white Bordeaux style that in some vintages resembles the pure Sauvignon - Pavillon Blanc produced at Chateau Margaux. The rich 1994 Meritage exhibits plenty of waxy, fleshy, corpulent Semillon that is well-balanced by zesty Sauvignon. Dry, rich, and beautifully pure, it should drink well for 2-4 years. Beringer has once again proven that they are one of the qualitative leaders in California as they continue to turn out reference point wines - not only for California, but the world. Tel. (707) 963-7115; Fax (707) 963-5054
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